Khantoke dinner

Thai style dance

I could not resist slipping in this photo of this ingenious 'chandelier' , a Thai paper umbrella strung with paper lanterns.

People sitting at dinner and listening to the MC.

Dinner

Before the dinner started

Khantokke Dinner

Since for this trip, R and I had decided to go with the flow, and not overplan, we did not have much planned for Chiang Rai other than the elephant safari. We did have some time on our hands and since both of us find it tough to relax too much in the hotel, we decided to speak to the concierge . The concierge, told us about the khantoke dinner, which combined Thai style theater/ dance with dinner. We signed on immediately and that very evening were taken to a large hall, which was open to the street on one side.

Khantoke is a Lanna Thai tradition. There was a stage at one end and low tables with low benches were placed on the floor of the hall before the stage. Big wooden trays ( or small wound wooden tables) filled with food, were placed on these tables along with bamboo containers containing the northern Thai staple of sticky rice, spoons, forks, etc. R and I were taken to one such table and in the manner of the Indian thali meal, attendants started serving us with food almost immediately. We were the only two non Thais at the event and therefore did felt a little lost in the beginning. A lady at the table next to us realized that and in the friendly manner of most Thais, she started speaking to us and explaining what was happening. Four or more people usually sit at a 'Khantoke' dinner , with individual plates and rice containers. Each serves themselves from the common curries, dips and other food placed on the wooden tray, which was replenished almost before it was finished by the attendant. Thais supposedly make balls of the sticky rice and dip it into the curries before eating it. There was a clear soup with some vegetables, 'Gai Tawd' fried chicken with a red chilli dip, Burmese pork curry 'Gaeng Hung Lay' pork curry in the northern style ( a little sour), chicken curry, some stirfried vegetables, boiled sweet potatoes with freshly grated coconut as the sweet dish, since dessert was served as part of the meal, and best of all, addictive prawn wafers (which tasted like the Maharashtrian kurdaya / sandge, which I just love). The food was hot and spicy, just the way I like it. I was still getting used to the texture of sticky rice, and the fact that it is so filling. Even a little amount can fill one up. After most people had finished eating, the theater started. First the MC made some announcement, (all in Thai) and then there were various Thai dances performed by a troupe of girls, like the long nailed dance, the candle dance, the shawl / scarf dance. In between these dances, the MC seemed to be cracking great jokes as the audience was breaking into laughter all the time. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves tremendously, especially a group which had a newly married / engaged couple, who were dragged on stage and introduced, much to the amusement of the audience.
It was quite a unique experience for us as otherwise we had been going to the more tourist type of destinations / events and this was the first time we had actually been with so many Thais.

Suvarnabhumi airport

Sunrise outside the Suvarnabhumi Airport

SagarManthan

A traditional Thai pavilion

The Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok , Thailand can only be described as IMPRESSIVE!!

The name "Suvarnabhumi" means Golden Land and was chosen to represent the Thailand Cambodia Laos Burma region which was traditionally called the Golden land. Its located 30 kms east of Bangkok and will be connected to the Bangkok Central Business District by skytrain in four years.

Designed by Murphy / Jahn Architects, the structure is chiefly glass and steel , letting in plenty of light into all the inner spaces. Some well landscaped inner courtyards and gardens provide a good contrast to the ultramodern design of the airport. The elements I liked best were the Thai paintings, statues and examples of Thai traditional architecture placed throughout the airport to give a visitor an introduction to Thai culture. I was a little apprehensive about taking photographs, as after the recent security issues involving airports, I expected someone to jump out from behind a column and confisicate the camera anytime. But, noone seemed to be bothered and after seeing other tourists happily clicking away, I also took some photos.

Back from Thailand

Back from an amazing trip to Thailand. R and I went for 10 days, had our fill of culture, nature, shopping and the beach. When we got back after a 5 flight, longer than 24 hours journey, our friend said we looked relaxed and happy.. thats the effect Thailand had on us.. how many times does one get of from such a journey looking happy and relaxed?

We started off with three days in Bangkok, then two days in Chiang Rai, two days in Chiang Mai and three days in Phuket before we had to come back. The highlights of our trip were the Grand Palace, Wat Po and Jim Thompsons house in Bangkok, going for and elephant safari and attending a khantokke dinner in Chiang Rai, shopping and going to the Royal Flora Ratchaphruck 2006 Festival in Chiang Mai and the great beaches and resort at Phuket!! We also ate the most wonderful food at every place.. fresh, spicy and loads of variety!!

Tomato Saar or the Indian take on Tomato Soup

This is a really fragrant take on tomato soup, which I love to eat with thick slices of toast or chapattis.

3 tomatoes
2 chilies, slit vertically into 2-4 pieces
2 tsp jeera
1 tsp ghee or cooking oil
5-6 whole peppercorns
6-7 curry leaves
1 tsp asafoetida
around 1 cm of ginger cut into thin slices
salt to taste
sugar to taste
1 tbsp fresh finely chopped coriander

Make a cross shaped incision on the top of the tomatoes. Set enough water to boil so that when the tomatoes are immersed, the top of the tomatoes are covered. When the water boils, add the tomatoes. Let the water continue boiling till the top skin of the tomatoes peels off. Let the tomatoes cool a bit and then peel the skin off. Put the tomatoes in a blender and puree the mixture.

In a kadhai / wok, heat the ghee / oil . Add the asafoetida, the peppercorns,curry leaves and jeera seeds. After the jeera seeds sizzle, add the tomato puree. Add the ginger slices, chilies, salt and sugar. Wait till the tomato mixture boils and add around 2 cups of water. One can add a can of coconut milk instead of the water for a creamier tomato saar that can be eaten with rice. Turn the heat on low and let it cook till it boils once more.
Season with the finely chopped coriander before serving.

Spring Onion Bhaji

Winters started in Austin, or rather Fall. Its windy, chilly and such a huge relief from the scorching still heat of the Texas summer. I really appreciate this weather after 4 long months of summer. This is one of the vegetable preparations I look forward to eating after a long day at work. It takes around 20 minutes to cook and tastes really good with some rotis and raita or rice and dal.

Spring Onion Bhaji ( Kandyachya Patichi Bhaji)

3 bunched of spring onions, cut horizontally (around 2 cupfulls) including the white onion on top
1/2 cup of besan (gram flour)
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp asafoetida
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1-2 tsp peanut / cooking oil
1/2 cup water
salt and red chilli powder to taste

Heat the oil in a kadhai / wok .Add the asafoetida, turmeric and mustard seeds. Wait till the mustard seeds burst and then add the 2 cups of spring onion. Add the salt and red chilli powder and mix thoroughly. Cook on medium heat for 5 minutes after covering the vessel. The spring onion will have released some water. Add the 1/2 cup of water. When this water boils, turn the heat on low and add the besan. Stir quickly to make sure it mixes in as a smooth paste.Let this cook till the raw smell of the besan is gone.

Red Pumpkin Raita

This is a recipe I learnt from my mother, I have not ever had this at anyone else's home, so have no idea how my mother got this recipe from, but I really like this raita and so does R, so its a common occurrence in our kitchen.

2.5 - 3 cups of pumpkin, cut into roughly square pieces, about an inch wide
1-2 chilies, cut horizontally, I like very fine pieces,
1 tsp jeera
1 tsp mustard seeds
2-3 tsps cooking oil
curry leaves
1/2 tsp asafoetida
1/2 tsp turmeric
salt to taste
1 lb / 16 oz yoghurt
1/2 cup coriander / cilantro leaves, roughly chopped


Boil the pumpkin pieces in a pressure cooker till mashable.
Mix the pumpkin, yoghurt, chilies and salt. Mash the mixture a little.
For the seasoning, heat the oil , add the asafoetida, the turmeric, the curry leaves, mustard and jeera till the jeera sizzles.
Pour the seasoning over the yoghurt - pumpkin mixture and mix gently but thoroughly.
Mix the coriander.