Khantokke Dinner

Since for this trip, R and I had decided to go with the flow, and not overplan, we did not have much planned for Chiang Rai other than the elephant safari. We did have some time on our hands and since both of us find it tough to relax too much in the hotel, we decided to speak to the concierge . The concierge, told us about the khantoke dinner, which combined Thai style theater/ dance with dinner. We signed on immediately and that very evening were taken to a large hall, which was open to the street on one side.

Khantoke is a Lanna Thai tradition. There was a stage at one end and low tables with low benches were placed on the floor of the hall before the stage. Big wooden trays ( or small wound wooden tables) filled with food, were placed on these tables along with bamboo containers containing the northern Thai staple of sticky rice, spoons, forks, etc. R and I were taken to one such table and in the manner of the Indian thali meal, attendants started serving us with food almost immediately. We were the only two non Thais at the event and therefore did felt a little lost in the beginning. A lady at the table next to us realized that and in the friendly manner of most Thais, she started speaking to us and explaining what was happening. Four or more people usually sit at a 'Khantoke' dinner , with individual plates and rice containers. Each serves themselves from the common curries, dips and other food placed on the wooden tray, which was replenished almost before it was finished by the attendant. Thais supposedly make balls of the sticky rice and dip it into the curries before eating it. There was a clear soup with some vegetables, 'Gai Tawd' fried chicken with a red chilli dip, Burmese pork curry 'Gaeng Hung Lay' pork curry in the northern style ( a little sour), chicken curry, some stirfried vegetables, boiled sweet potatoes with freshly grated coconut as the sweet dish, since dessert was served as part of the meal, and best of all, addictive prawn wafers (which tasted like the Maharashtrian kurdaya / sandge, which I just love). The food was hot and spicy, just the way I like it. I was still getting used to the texture of sticky rice, and the fact that it is so filling. Even a little amount can fill one up. After most people had finished eating, the theater started. First the MC made some announcement, (all in Thai) and then there were various Thai dances performed by a troupe of girls, like the long nailed dance, the candle dance, the shawl / scarf dance. In between these dances, the MC seemed to be cracking great jokes as the audience was breaking into laughter all the time. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves tremendously, especially a group which had a newly married / engaged couple, who were dragged on stage and introduced, much to the amusement of the audience.
It was quite a unique experience for us as otherwise we had been going to the more tourist type of destinations / events and this was the first time we had actually been with so many Thais.